Gazpacho Bromeliad Neoregelia

It's a bit weird to name a tropical plant after a cold soup (with both the cold and soup being seemingly the antithesis of what we think of as the tropics) but here we are. Its foliage is medium width with burgundy and cherry-red and green-apple coloring that is exciting and intense.  Gazpacho Bromeliads are rare tropical plants that can be purchased now at our online shop. 

Characteristics and Traits of the Gazpacho Bromeliad Neoregelia

• Scientific Name: Bromeliad Neoregelia
• Genus: Neoregelia
• Family: Bromeliaceae
• Common Name: Gazpacho Bromeliad
• Outdoor Zones: 9-12 or any zone as an inside plant
• Grown In: Inside & Outside
• Type: Perennial; monocarpic rosettes; multiannual; Each plant will produce one to multiple pups which grow into mature plants!
• Mature Height: 6-8"
• Mature Width: 12-16"
• Plant Height when Shipped: 11-13"
• Growth Rate: Slow
• Flower: Inconspicuous. The small lavender flowers often last from 1-4 months and grow inside the plant's tank.. After the flowers die, the adult bromeliad also dies, but new "pups" will also typically emerge at the base of the adult plant.
• Foliage: Exciting burgundy and cherry red and green apple coloring and yellow/gold spots - foliage is medium width

Plant Care and Advice for Gazpacho Bromeliads

• Grown In: Inside & Outside
• Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade
• Water Requirements: Keep soil moist, but not soggy. Otherwise, water both the ground and the center tank (or cup). When possible use rain water or filtered water as tap water can have harsh chemicals. If you live in a dry area, also mist the leaves when you water.
• Drought Tolerance: Good
• Temperature: 55-85 degrees is ideal, but can tolerate lower and higher temps
• Air Purification: Excellent - removes over 6 different airborne pollutants
• Toxicity: Non-toxic
• Fertilizer: Typically not needed, however, during the warmer growing months, you can use a general purpose fertilizer at half strength every two months or preferably slow release pallet fertilizer every 6 months. Be sure to place the fertilizer on the soil below the plant - NEVER in the tank (or cup).
• Container Friendly: Yes - Be sure it drains well
• Planting: Indoors: Bromeliads do best in shallow pots using a well draining, porous orchid or succulent potting mix or medium - a mix of approximately 2/3 peat-based soil and 1/3 sand is perfect. Use a plastic or glazed ceramic pot as unglazed clay pots allow too much water to evaporate. Outdoors: Plant in the ground in a well drained location. Alternatively you can dig a hole and simply bury the container, however, check that your container has drainage holes so rainwater does not get trapped in it. This is an easy way for your bromeliad to appear as if it is growing in the ground, but allows for you to easily relocate it inside before any frost sets in. You can also plant bromeliads in trees, logs, or rocks since their roots are primarily used to anchor to objects, not necessarily for nutrition. Be careful when handling as the leaves have spines and prickles.
• Expert Advice: Place your bromeliad in medium indirect sunlight. If your plant is yellowish, it may be receiving too much light and if it turns dark green or elongated, it may be receiving too little light. Bromeliads require excellent drainage - while their roots prefer to be moist, they can never be allowed to remain soggy. Water that does not drain properly through your potting medium can cause your plant to develop root or crown rot. It is often sufficient to water your bromeliad just once every week or two. Consider, dumping out any stale water from the tank and replacing with fresh water. They love humidity, so in dryer conditions, try keeping the pot in a saucer of pebbles or gravel kept constantly wet to raise the humidity level. You can also spray a water mist on them occasionally. While bromeliads do not often attract pests, if you find any mealy bugs or scale, it can be wiped off with alcohol and a cotton swab or with your fingernail - Don't use neem oil. Propagation: When the flower dies, watch for pups near the plant's base. When the pups are large enough to break away from the adult plant, you can either remove them by cutting them off from the adult (with sterile scissors) and planting in any well-draining medium, or you can simply leave them to grow where they are.